Age Appropriate Training for Dogs

By: Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA, Pet Behavior Solutions http://www.petbehaviorsolutions.com/

Dogs, like children, go through stages in their development. Training needs change as they mature and as they move in and out of these developmental stages. Often, training is one size fits all – dogs must learn sit, down, stay, heel, and come. While those are the most common and useful commands, dogs need to learn so much more than that and those needs change based on their age.

Puppies age 8 weeks to 5 months - Puppies in this age group need to learn bite inhibition, gentling exercises for handling, housetraining, appropriate play, how to handle frustration, etc. Puppies have the attention span of a gnat at this age! They shouldn’t be expected to be perfectly precise in their commands nor should they be expected to do behaviors for a long period of time. Generally at this age, they should know sit and down on command but compliance will be inconsistent. They will stay until they forget what they were doing, walk on a loose leash until they hear, see, or smell something exciting, and come when it is fun for them.

Juveniles age 5 months to 1 year – Older puppies need to learn impulse control, how to turn their play on and off immediately, how to handle and negotiate disappointment, how to problem solve and/or manipulate complex situations, etc.. At this age, they should not be puppy biting anymore. They have a little more attention span and impulse control at this age. Often juvenile puppies get into more trouble because they are bigger, more curious, and less fearful. They should learn the house rules of what is not allowed – like getting on furniture, getting up on counters/tables, etc. At this age, they should know how to sit and down on command as well as what happens if they don’t comply (i.e., disappointing consequences - don’t sit when I ask, the door won’t open or the leash is put away, etc.) They should be able to stay for longer periods of time, but they still lose track of the exercise after a while. They are far more independent at this age so the come command can become a real challenge. You should keep in mind that this is their “teenage years” and they think most things don’t apply to them unless it was their idea. They are testing and pushing for as much control as they can have over their lives and consistency in training is critical.

Adult dogs age 1 to 3 years – Dogs in this age group are becoming emotionally and socially mature. They can understand complex situations as a result of fully developed doggy impulse control and a longer attention span. They can connect cause and effect well. It is critical to remember that dogs don’t have a moral sense about them. They know safe vs. dangerous and what works vs. what doesn’t work. They may still test and push boundaries depending on their breed and personality. At this age, it is important to maintain consistency with your rules and provide feedback for their behavior. Adult dogs should know sit and down well – just for the command – not just for treats. They should reliably stay and come provided you have trained them to this level. Walking on a leash should be a pleasure at this age if you have taken the time to train loose leash walking.

Older dogs 5+ years – By this age, dogs should be finished making their mark on the world. All the training that you put in should be maintained in their long-term cognitive memory as well as their kinesthetic or muscle memory. At this age, dogs still need enrichment and still need to think and solve problems. Training is even more critical at this age to keep dogs young, active, and as healthy as possible. Try to incorporate their training into situations they may not expect like when playing with toys, before going for a walk, etc. You should also ensure that their training isn’t sequenced as is common for dogs of this age. (e.g., You ask your dog for a sit and they show you their entire resume of sit, shake hands, sit up, down, roll over, etc.) If this is the case, clean up their command response by asking for a behavior and giving them a reward only if they give you the proper response. (e.g., You ask for a sit and they give you a sit into a down into a roll over – no reward. You ask for a down and they give you a sit – no reward.) These exercises are so important to their mental health and are fun for you and your dog.

5 Biggest Mistakes People Make With Their Cats

By: Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA, President, Pet Behavior Solutions http://www.petbehaviorsolutions.com/

1. Placing the litter box, food, and water in the same location. We wouldn’t want the bathroom to be incorporated into the kitchen and neither do our cats. Cats are fastidious animals and generally prefer to eliminate far from where they eat and drink. If they must be located in the same room, be sure they are on opposite sides of the room.

2. Having multiple boxes lined up next to each other when there are multiple cats. Cats prefer to have a couple options for eliminating especially when there is more than one cat in the household. Most cats are private when they go to the bathroom. They are also quite vulnerable to ambushes (playful or not) while they are busy in the litter box. When boxes are all lined up like urinals in a public restroom, they aren’t able to be private or feel safe. It is better to have boxes in different locations within the same room or different rooms altogether.

3. Introducing a new cat into the household too quickly. Cats need time to acclimate to another cat. Very few cats readily accept a new cat without some adjustment. It is best to keep the new cat in a spare room with all the necessary kitty amenities for a day or two. Then wedge the door open about 2 inches with a rubber door stop to encourage limited interaction. Once the cats are interested in each other without acting as if they will fight, then they can have brief time together as long as they are supervised. Once they can be peaceful with each other where no one is a bully and no one is traumatized, they can be allowed together unsupervised. This whole process can take from a few days to a few months.

4. Not cleaning the litter box often enough. This sounds so obvious, but it is the most common thing we see that contributes to litter box problems. When using scoopable litter, the boxes should be scooped daily or twice daily depending on the number of cats in your household. Again, cats are fastidious animals and want a clean area in which to eliminate. Be sure to keep the box itself clean as well since used litter sticks to the bottom and sides of the box. The box retains odors even when the litter is scooped. The box should be cleaned periodically before adding additional litter.

5. Not giving your cat vertical access. Cats like to climb high, hide in “hidey” holes, play fort behind things, jump out from under things, etc. Cats should have a cat tree or cat condo to provide for those needs. If you do not provide appropriate places for your cats to climb and hide, they will create their own. This may include your curtains, piano, counters, shelves of knick knacks, etc. The more outlets cats have, the easier it will be to retain your precious belongings!

5 Biggest Mistakes People Make With Their Dogs

By Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA, Pet Behavior Solutions (http://www.petbehaviorsolutions.com/)

1. Not training your dog. Dogs need training and boundaries in order to be polite and well-behaved. Be clear on how you want your dog to behave and the household rules. Think of these common training issues: jumping up to greet people, getting on furniture, stealing food from counters, unruly when walking on a leash, not coming when called, bolting out doors, etc. These are common problems that can be addressed with training and behavior modification. You don’t have to be frustrated with your dog!

2. Giving your dog too much freedom. A dog’s freedom should be proportionate to his behavior. Common issues that can arise when a dog has too much freedom include eliminating indoors, marking, chewing, stealing, digging, etc. If your dog is doing these things when you aren’t around to consequence or train him, he has too much freedom. While confinement or restriction alone won’t alleviate these issues entirely, it will make the treatment program work much more quickly and effectively.

3. Not understanding your dog’s personality and preferences. Dogs, like people, have preferences. Not all dogs like other dogs, or children, or strangers. Some dogs are environmentally focused by breed and instinct and will therefore be limited in the attention or command compliance they give you while they are engaged in their interests. Training may be limited by their breed, personalities, preferences, experiences, etc.

4. Not giving your dog adequate exercise or outlets for enrichment. Dogs were not intended to live a sedentary life in the confines of our homes. Like us, they can get cabin fever and become restless when they haven’t had an outlet or exercise. Restlessness usually manifests itself in nuisance behavior problems such as digging, chewing, barking, pestering, and other unruly behaviors. Dogs need to get exercise as well as negotiate things and problem solve. In other words, they need to think as well as work out. Adequate enrichment and exercise decreases or eliminates many behavior problems.

5. Giving your dog everything he wants at will. In our crazy, hectic lives, we generally try to do things to make dog ownership easier on our schedules. We have tons of toys available, give them dog doors, and have food available for them at all times. While this makes it much easier for us and convenient for our dogs, it isn’t the best situation. Dogs should learn to do something to get something as a part of their training. They should learn to do what we ask in exchange for a desired resource. Dogs that never have to ask for anything can be difficult to train. While they can learn to sit for treats, if the training isn’t incorporated into their routine, it will have little impact. Dogs should learn to sit or down in order to get access to or freedom from things. They should learn to sit and down for dinner, doors to open, access to certain furniture if allowed, access to certain rooms, etc. If your dog is asked to sit before being allowed outside and he doesn’t sit, then the door doesn’t open which is a consequence for not complying. Dogs that have all of their resources freely available at all times don’t need to do something to get something and therefore will likely not be as well trained.

If you avoid these common mistakes it will lead to a much more balanced relationship between you and your dog!

Help! I think my Dog has separation anxiety!!

Written by: Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA, President, Pet Behavior Solutions

Newly adopted pets may be more prone to adjustment issues in their new home. Often times newly adopted dogs attach quickly to their humans as their source of security while they are negotiating the environment and learning the routine. With most dogs, they adjust quite readily but in some cases, they can become anxious and inconsolable when their owners leave. This article is designed to help you identify whether or not your dog may have separation anxiety. It will give you some general guidelines to help your dog adjust and tolerate being separated from you.

What is Separation Anxiety?

Separation anxiety describes dogs that are overly attached or dependent on family members. They become extremely anxious and show distress behaviors of vocalization, destruction, house-soiling, or inactivity when separated from the owners. Most dogs with separation anxiety try to remain close to their owners and become increasingly anxious the greater the separation. They may follow the owners from room to room and begin to display signs of anxiety as soon as the owners prepare to leave. Some of these dogs crave a great deal of physical contact and attention from their owners and can be demanding. During departures or separations they may begin to salivate or pant profusely, vocalize, eliminate, refuse to eat, become destructive, or become quiet and withdrawn. Most often these behaviors occur within about 30 minutes of the owner’s departure. While typically the behavior occurs each and every time the owner leaves, it can only happen on selected departures, such as work-day departures, or when the owner leaves again after coming home from work.

Many dogs enjoy chewing and engage in the behavior when they have nothing better to keep them occupied. House-soiling may be due to medical problems, leaving the dog alone for longer than he can control his bladder, or inadequate house-training. Vocalization may be due to territorial intrusion by strangers or other animals and can be a rewarded behavior if the dog receives any form of attention when he vocalizes or rewarded by the stimulus leaving. Some dogs will attempt to escape or become extremely anxious when confined, so that destructiveness or house-soiling when a dog is locked up in a crate, basement, or laundry room, may be due to confinement or barrier anxiety and associated attempts at escape. In addition, noise phobias such as a thunderstorm that passes through during the owner’s absence, may lead to marked destructiveness, house-soiling, salivation, and vocalization.

What can I do immediately to prevent damage?

This is an extremely difficult question. The goal of treatment is to reduce your dog's level of anxiety by training him to feel comfortable in your absence. This can be a long intensive process. Yet, most owners will need to deal with the damage or vocalization immediately. During initial retraining it may be best to hire a dog sitter, take the dog to work, find a friend to care for the dog for the day, board the dog for the day, or arrange to take some time off from work to retrain the dog. Crate training or dog proofing techniques may work especially for those dogs that already have an area where they are used to being confined. Crates should be used with caution however with dogs that have separation anxiety and/or also have barrier frustrations because they can severely injure themselves attempting to get out of a crate.

What should be done prior to departures?

Before any lengthy departure, provide a vigorous session of play and exercise. This not only helps to reduce some of the dog’s energy and tire him out, but also provides a period of attention. A brief training session can also be a productive way to further interact and “work” with your dog. For the final 15-30 minutes prior to departure, the dog should be ignored. The key is to avoid as many of the departure signals as possible, so that the dog’s anxiety doesn’t heighten, even before the owner leaves. Brushing teeth, changing into work clothes, or collecting keys, purse, or briefcase are all routines that might be able to be performed out of sight of the dog. As you depart, the dog should be kept busy and occupied, and preferably out of sight, so that there is little or no anxiety. Giving favored treats and food for departure times (and taking them away when you are at home) can help keep the dog distracted and perhaps “enjoying himself” while you leave. Dogs that are highly stimulated by food may become so intensively occupied in a peanut butter or dog food stuffed dog toy, a new chew bone, or some frozen dog treats, that they may not even notice you leave. Be certain that the distraction devices last as long as possible so that the dog continues to occupy his time until you are “long gone”. Frozen treats placed in the dog’s food bowl, toys that are tightly stuffed with goodies, toys that are designed to require manipulation and work to obtain the food reward, toys that can maintain lengthy chewing, and timed feeders that open throughout the day are a few suggestions. Naturally, food will not be effective for dogs that will not eat when the owner is preparing to leave. If you have multiple dogs, you should take caution about competitive situations with food and treats.

What should I do when I come home?

At homecomings, ignore your dog until he calms and settles down. Take this time to get changed, check your e-mail or read your mail. When he has calmed from his initial reaction, then you may calmly greet him. Exuberant greetings or any type of punishment for misbehavior will only serve to heighten the dog’s anxiety surrounding homecomings.

None of this is helping, what should I do?

Sometimes, a dog’s anxiety is so severe that none of these things work. If this is the case, you should contact Pet Behavior Solutions or another behavior expert, or your veterinarian. You will likely need a systematic protocol to desensitize your dog to departures and separation from you. These protocols will contain exercises designed to teach your dog to relax and accept longer periods of separation from you. These protocols should be specifically designed for your family, environment, routine, and your dog. Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions at all. I can be reached at sam@petbehaviorsolutions.com or at 602-324-8948.

Final Update and A Heartfelt Thank you

By: Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA, President, Pet Behavior Solutions

On September 28^th, I had surgery to donate a kidney to a client / friend of mine, Dave, who was in renal failure. The surgery went perfectly and the kidney began working immediately. I was out of the hospital the next day and he was out two days later. Dave’s recovery has been smooth and he is doing great! This has been the most amazing experience! What an honor to be a part of something so significant!

It has been a quick recovery for me since I am healthy and active. I am excited to say that I am back to work already even though I am still healing. I am resting as I need to and have assistance as needed for the more physical appointments.

I have been overwhelmed by the support and friendship shown by so many people. This experience has truly changed my life in so many ways. I learned to appreciate my health in a way I never have before. For the first time in my life I was in a position to truly need and have to accept help from others. That wasn’t easy for me, being as independent as I am. It was a humbling and yet very comforting experience. I also experienced so much compassion and caring from people - people I didn’t even know! Finally, I truly know how important we all are to each other and how much we truly need one another.

I thank you all for your support and especially for your patience during my recuperation. I also appreciate your referrals and loyalty. It was really scary taking a month off of work but with your support and continued business, I am back on my feet and thrilled to be working again! Thank you again, so much!

Integrating a New Dog With an Existing Dog

Written by: Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA, President, Pet Behavior Solutions

http://www.petbehaviorsolutions.com/

Adding a new dog into your household is a very exciting time! Generally, everyone adjusts and your new dog blends well with your existing dog. Sometimes, there may be stress when things don’t go as well as expected. There are several things you can do to ease the stress and help the adjustment to go as smoothly as possible.

· It is important to feed your dogs completely separate from each other and pick up the food bowls when the meal is over. Some dogs become possessive over their food and competition may begin. Separate feeding is particularly important so your dogs have an opportunity to establish their hierarchy and form a social bond with each other. Once a hierarchy is establish and social bonds are formed, most dogs tend to negotiate their conflict more appropriately.

· You should also keep all toys and chew bones up unless you are able to supervise the dogs to see how they behave in these potentially competitive situations.

· Some dogs are one-dog-wrecking-crews when they are left alone. You should confine your new dog when he is left home without you until you know that his behavior is appropriate.

· Store anything of yours that is of value to you until you know how your dog behaves in the house. There is no reason to lose a valuable collection of antique baseball cards because you didn’t think your dog would chew them up!

· Acclimate your new dog to being home without you by leaving him for a few minutes at a time. You should leave, drive around the block, and return home. Do this several times increasing the length of time you are gone each time. He should get used to your coming and going and the most important part is that he will know you always return. This may help if your dog has a little anxiety about being left home without you.

· Supervise your new dog around your children until you feel completely comfortable with everyone’s interaction. Don’t assume that things will go well until you see it go well for yourself!

· Leash your new dog when introducing him to the household cat to ensure that no chasing takes place. As with children, you should supervise your dog and cat together until you feel completely comfortable with everyone’s interaction.

· Don’t put your dog in stressful situations until he has fully acclimated and is comfortable. Wait to have the dinner party, hold off on the grooming appointment, and delay the dog park visit. Once he has settled in, he should better be able to handle all those situations.

· Don’t allow your dog to have unsupervised access to the back yard until he has settled in and you know how he behaves. Some dogs may become anxious when left alone and escape your yard either by jumping over or digging under the fence or gate. Some dogs also bark and howl when they are left alone and your neighbors may not take kindly to all the noise.

Adding a new dog should be fun and exciting. If you take the time to go slowly and prevent any potential problems, you can create a smoother transition for everyone.

How Pets Change Our Lives - A Personal Story

13 years ago Dave & Diane went to the Arizona Animal Welfare League and adopted a 6-month-old black shepherd mix named Beau. They came through my obedience class and then became private clients. We worked together to deal with Beau's adolescent behavior as a one-dog wrecking crew! Through the years we became good friends.

Last summer, Dave (42 years old) became seriously ill and was hospitalized. He was told he was in kidney failure with Polycystic Kidney Disease. He was immediately placed on dialysis to save his life. He recieves dialysis three times a week and is in end-stage renal failure. He is on the transplant list for a new kidney which would enable him to stop dialysis and live a normal life. Because his options are limited, I went through days of testing to see if I was a match for a kidney donation. We recieved the amazing news that I am and we are moving forward with the surgery! I am generally a very private person, but I share this for two reasons. The first is that I am honored to be able to do this for a friend to improve the qualify of his life! The second reason is that the transplant surgery and recovery will have an impact on my business and my clients.

The surgery will take place on September 28th. I will be out of commission for a couple weeks following the surgery while I recuperate. Marsha will be taking calls and e-mails for the first week following my surgery. I will be available on a limited basis via phone and e-mail from the second week on as I recover. Once I am cleared to drive and lift more than 20 pounds, I will ease back into a full work schedule!

I understand that when there is a behavior problem, people need help right away so I will do my best to do phone consultations until I am cleared to return to work. I ask for your patience, continued business, and referrals so I can get back to work as soon as possible!

To be a match for an organ transplant for a friend is an awesome and humbling experience. We are working through the challenges involved with unreimbursed expenses associated with the transplant. With the help of friends and family, everything will come together.

I want poeple to understand why I will be taking some time off and to ask for your continued business and referrals both before and after the surgery. More importantly, I wanted to share the most amazing part of this very personal story. Isn't it amazing how our pets are often the catalyst for our closest relationships? Through Beau's adoption and training, lives crossed, friendships were formed, and many lives will be forever affected by that experience!

I thank you for your patience, understanding, and support. If you have any questions at all, please feel free to contact me directly at sam@petbehaviorsolutions.com. Thank you!

Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA, President

Pet Behavior Solutions

www.petbehaviorsolutions.com

602-324-8948

Emotions in our Pets

Written by: Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA, President

Pet Behavior Solutions

http://www.petbehaviorsolutions.com/

When a dog is shaved down for the summer, can he be embarrassed? When a dog misbehaves toward the newly adopted pet, is he being jealous? When a cat urinates on the bed pillow while her family is on vacation is she being spiteful? When a dog’s littermate passes after 10 years together, will the surviving dog grieve? Can our pets experience these emotions?

Dogs and cats have coevolved with humans leading to domestication. They are no longer the wild animals from which they descended. Does this mean that they have more human emotions due to domestication? Let’s look to science for some clarification. There are three types of brains in the animal kingdom:

Primitive or Reptilian Brain – This is the brain stem. The primitive brain supports the most basic functions of breathing, circulation, and digestion. It also involves the most basic aspects of behavior. Its main behavioral function is self-preservation and reproduction.

Intermediate or Mammalian Brain – The intermediate brain is wrapped around the brain stem. This brain involves memory, behaviors related to reproduction, hormones, perception of pleasure, and competition with others. The mammalian brain is the seat of 12 primary social emotions: anger, joy, fear, sadness, surprise, curiosity, frustration, acceptance, emotions relating to play behaviors, sexual attraction, separation distress, and social attachment.

Superior or Rational Brain – This brain combines the brain stem, the mammalian brain and a large prefrontal cortex. This is the brain of humans, elephants, dolphins, and primates. The superior brain provides logic and thought due to its highly developed prefrontal cortex. The prefrontal cortex allows us comprehend good and bad or right and wrong. It governs our impulse control. The prefrontal cortex makes up 30% of the human brain where it makes up only 7% of the dog’s brain, and only 1% of the cat’s brain! While humans possess a moral sense of right and wrong, dogs and cats are unable to do that. They only understand safe and unsafe relating to self preservation. Here is an example: When your dog urinates in the house but you are unable to catch him because he won’t do it in front of you – that doesn’t mean he knows it’s wrong to urinate in the house. It means he has learned that it is unsafe to get caught because bad things will happen. That behavior is driven by cause and effect, not by a sense of right and wrong.

The superior brain allows us to process conflicting or complex emotions. The following are some examples of complex emotions: shame, guilt, embarrassment, love, greed, spite, empathy, and jealousy. Complex emotions involve thought and interpretation. Our culture and upbringing determine their meanings.

So if a dog can’t be embarrassed, how would you explain the sheepish look they have when they are first shaved? Embarrassment is defined as a socially unacceptable act witnessed by others that causes a loss of honor and dignity. Dogs don't get caught up worrying about how we perceive them. Unlike humans, they don't have egos that can be deflated. A better name for this sheepish behavior would be shyness which is defined as a feeling of apprehension, lack of confidence, or awkwardness. Dogs have varying levels of self awareness. The owners of many Labradors will tell you that their dogs don’t know they have a butt or a tail when they crash into things as they move and wag their tail. Conversely, the owner of a Sheltie may say if a hair on the tip of his tail is touched unexpectedly, he will tuck his tail and butt while turning around to see what touched him. This is similar to when a dog behaves in a way that we interpret as embarrassment. When a shaved dog looks embarrassed he is actually behaving in an anxious manner until he has acclimated to how the new haircut feels. This was an adaptive behavior in the wild for survival since anything that was different in their appearance could put them at risk of exposure to the elements or attack by someone else. Hiding and behaving cautiously or anxiously during these times would increase their survival rate. Despite domestication, there are still varying levels of awareness and concern in dogs.

How do you explain when a pet seems to be jealous? Pets are competing for resources or for things they value. What looks like jealousy is really competition. Competition is about survival and rank. It sounds like semantics but it is really important to understand that dogs aren’t conniving animals that stew about another’s advantages.

When a cat pees on my husband’s pillow is there really any other explanation other than spite? Let’s first look at the definition of spite: a malicious, petty desire to harm, annoy, frustrate, or humiliate another person. Spite is a complex emotion by its definition. A cat would have to comprehend a human’s emotions as well as what triggers those emotions. Then it would have to think up a way to elicit certain negative emotions based on an understanding of each person’s unique set of preferences, experiences, ownership rights, system for valuing items, etc. Humans view the act of eliminating as a private and almost dirty but necessary behavior. Animals don’t have those same hang-ups. They use urine as a scent marker in order to establish territory, ownership, or in order to make themselves feel more secure. Often, there is an anxiety component to marking behaviors or there may be some other reason altogether as to why it is happening. They aren’t doing it in order to get some sort of satisfaction when we become upset about it. There is always more to the story and we must look at every aspect of the behavior in order to resolve the issue. It sure feels like spite when the cat only urinates on the husband’s pillow or when the dog chews the most expensive pair of shoes, but it just isn’t.

Don’t dogs and cats grieve when their companion dies? Dogs and cats cannot experience grief in the same way that humans do. Grief is a complex emotion not a primary emotion. Elephants, who have a rational brain like humans, have complex grieving rituals when one of the herd is lost. When a dog or cat is struggling with the death of a person or animal what we are actually seeing is separation distress. Of course distress occurs from the termination of the bond, but there are other reasons for distress. Changes in the remaining pet’s routine resulting from the loss create anxiety and the emotions displayed by grieving humans can cause even more anxiety and distress for pets.

Why is it important to understand our pet’s emotions? When we ascribe complex human emotions to our pets it can create difficulty when we need to change unwanted behavior. We must understand the motivation of the behavior if we are to change it. For example, if a dog destroys the carpet when he is left alone for the day, we must understand the real reason he is doing it in order to come up with the proper solution. He may be experiencing separation anxiety when he is left alone and chews as an outlet for that anxiety or he may have learned that chewing the carpet when you are around just isn’t safe and therefore it works much better to do it when you aren’t home. The solution for each situation would be different because the motivation is different. If we ascribe spite as a motivator for a behavior, we are already wrong on the motivation and will likely chose an ineffective technique for resolving it. We then become more frustrated and we are at odds with our pet.

Dogs and cats have different brains than humans. We should not think of them as furry people complete with human drives and emotions. Instead, we should look at them as having more child-like emotions and embrace their innocence. Only through compassion and understanding can we truly have a mutually beneficial relationship with our pets.

A Better Way to Train

Written by: Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA, President (www.petbehaviorsolutions.com)

Pet Behavior Solutions has developed a different style of training that we call Choice Training™. Choice Training™ focuses on teaching your pethow to choose the behaviors you like instead of those you don’t. Your petis rewarded for making the right choice. Choice Training™ incorporates the best aspects of the other training methods but avoids their pitfalls. It works for general obedience training as well as behavior modification!

How do training methods differ?

Although there are many different methods for training dogs, most can be separated into two basic categories: traditional training and modern training. Traditional training focuses on correcting the dog when he does something wrong. For example, if a dog pulls ahead on a leash instead of heeling, the handler will apply a leash correction to get the dog into the heel position. Or, if the dog does not sit, the handler pulls up on the leash while pushing down on the dog’s hind-quarters until the dog sits. Dogs learn to obey commands to avoid these corrections. Modern training focuses on controlling the dog’s behavior by manipulating him into doing something right and rewarding him for doing it. For example, to teach a dog how to sit, a handler would rock the dog gently back into a sitting position or use a treat to lure him into position. The dog is then rewarded for sitting.

What is Choice Training^TM and why is it better than the alternatives?

It is more fun for the trainer and the dog to teach behaviors without having to use training methods that rely on fear, pain, or discomfort. Choice Training^TM encourages your dog’s creativity and problem solving. It makes them try harder to get things right and they don’t give up as easily because getting it wrong doesn’t result in a correction. Getting it wrong creates frustration and disappointment which creates a stronger desire to figure it out. Choice Training^TM avoids the negative side effects of traditional corrections yielding more confident, compliant dogs. It does not involve bribing as bribes encourage a dog to hold out. (e.g., The dog is commanded to come but waits to hear the rattle of the treat bag before he decides to come.) With our methods dogs won’t only work for food, they will work for what they want which includes attention, freedom, access to something, etc. Dogs also learn that not compling results in the loss of those same thinhgs. Choice Training^TM utilizes hope for something rather than expectancy. Hope is extremely powerful and is immunized from disappointment; expectancy isn’t. Choice Training^TM promotes better reliability in training.

Why does it work? How does it work? Will it work for all dogs? (e.g., old, young, varying breeds, varying sizes, etc.)

We do not physically manipulate or force the dog, we manipulate the environment in order to maximize the possibility that a given behavior will occur. Our training teaches your dog that you control the resources and his choices either gain or lose those resources. We want the dog to make lots of mistakes in order to learn which choices work and which choices don’t. We use a system of positive reinforcement and negative punishment—good things happen, good things go away. You control the resources and your dog controls the choices. It’s all up to them how they behave; it’s up to us what we reinforce. Your dog always chooses the behavior; you learn to show him/her what choices are best. Choice Training^TM is based on laws of learning and behavior—that which is reinforced will be repeated, that which is not reinforced will be abandoned.

Please contact us for more information about Choice Training^TM and for help with your pet’s behavior and training.

Case Report - Pulling Moss From the Ficus Tree

Written by: Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA, President Pet Behavior Solutions

Dog: Sashi, 2-year-old spayed female Skye Terrier

Client: Tiffany

Client Complaint: Pulling moss from an artificial tree

When Tiffany was at work, Sashi would pull the moss out of the artificial Ficus tree and make a terrible mess in the living room. Sashi did not destroy anything else while Tiffany was at work and was otherwise well behaved when Tiffany was home. Tiffany told me that Sashi had played in the moss when she was first adopted a year ago, but after a few reprimands, she had stopped. After a few months, Sashi began occasionally playing with the moss, but only when Tiffany was not home. By the time Tiffany called me, the problem behavior had become much more frequent, and Tiffany was facing almost daily messes. When Tiffany found these messes after returning home from work, she would bring Sashi over to the tree and say, “No, Sashi, bad girl.” Sashi eventually avoided the tree completely when Tiffany was home, but continued to pull the moss out of the tree when Tiffany was at work.

Tiffany had unwittingly taught Sashi not to bother the tree as long as she was home. Sashi had learned that playing with the moss was no fun when Mom was around (because she got scolded) but that it was quite fun to do when Mom wasn’t around. This is what we call an “owner absent” problem — when a dog learns not to do something in front of the owner. In order to solve the problem, Sashi needed to learn that the tree itself didn’t want to have its moss removed! To help Sashi learn this lesson, we used a product called a Snappy Trainer^TM. A Snappy Trainer™ is a mousetrap modified with a big red plastic paddle on it so the dog cannot get hurt when the product is set off. We placed the Snappy Trainer™ in the tree basket and carefully placed the moss on top of it. When Tiffany returned home from work, the Snappy Trainer™ had been set off and there was a minimal amount of moss on the floor. She continued to set the Snappy Trainer™ each day. When Tiffany returned home on the 3^rd day, the she discovered that the moss had not been disturbed and Snappy Trainer™ was still as she had left it. Sashi had learned that scary things happen when she plays with the moss even if Mom wasn’t in the room! The tree itself delivered a message that it did not want to have the moss pulled from it. We often see owner-absent problems that arise because pets learn not to engage in certain behaviors in the presence of the owner. The most effective way to deal with such issues is to help the pet realize that the behavior itself doesn’t work, regardless of whether humans are around or not. Snappy Trainers™ are one method of teaching this lesson, and we would be happy to discuss other effective methods with you!

For more information on Snappy Trainers, please contact Pet Behavior Solutions http://www.petbehaviorsolutions.com/ or http://www.snappytrainer.com/

Private Obedience Training vs. Group Obedience Classes

Written by: Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA, President, Pet Behavior Solutions

http://www.petbehaviorsolutions.com/

Have you ever wondered which is better – private or group training? We receive many calls for obedience training for dogs. Some people specifically ask for either private lessons or group training but most have no idea how to choose which is better for their situation. Here is a list of pros and cons for each to help you to decide which is best for you and your pet!

Private training pros

· Tailored specifically for your training goals

· Scheduled at your convenience

· Lessons are held in your home

· Minimal distractions compared to group training

· Lessons are more practical (e.g., commands are taught and practiced for how you want to use them – stay when the front door is opened, not jumping on company, coming when called in your neighborhood, sitting and downing incorporated into your household routine)

· You get all the attention during the lesson

· Lessons can be scheduled in any environment that you want your dog to behave (e.g., parks, coffee shops, etc.)

Group training pros

· Other dogs provide distractions to practice the exercises

· Less expensive

· Having other students and dogs creates a little competition to work the exercises (No one wants to have the only dog who didn't practice the homework!)

Private training cons

· More expensive

· No peer camaraderie or competition to work the exercises

· No other dogs to provide a distraction to practice the lessons

Group training cons

· Instructor or trainer’s attention is divided by all the students in the class

· The group setting of a class is very distracting for the dogs which presents challenges when learning something new

· Can be difficult to apply the lessons outside of the classroom in the environment in which you need your dog to comply (e.g., the front door, out on the park, when company comes over, etc.)

Did you know that 96% of dogs surrendered to animal shelters have never had any formal training?Whether you choose group training or private lessons, training is extremely important! Dogs need to know basic commands in order to be well mannered. Basic commands can keep your dog safe as well. Come and stay are two very important safety commands because they control your dog's movement. Training can make you proud of your dog and gives you quality time together!

3 Key Training Exercises for a Well Mannered Dog

Written by: Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA, President, Pet Behavior Solutions (www.petbehaviorsolutions.com)

Just about everyone would like to have a polite, well mannered dog. Such dogs are a pleasure to take with you into the community, greet guests well and make their owners feel proud! Here are three key training exercises that you can practice with your dog to teach him to be more polite.

1. Do something to get something. Your dog should learn that he gets what he wants only when he does what you want. Teach your dog to sit or down before he can have access to ANYTHING. Here are some examples of rewards you can provide after your dog offers you a sit or a down: a toy being thrown, freedom from his crate, opening a baby gate, going through a door, receiving meals and treats, getting his leash put on to go for a walk, etc. Don’t make him comply with your command (e.g., pushing his butt down to force him to sit.) Allow him to experience the consequence of what happens if he doesn’t listen. The consequence for NOT complying with a command should be the loss of the thing he was expecting. This means that the door doesn’t open, the toy doesn’t get thrown, dinner is delayed, etc. Wait a minute or two and then try again.

2. Wait for permission. Your dog should learn to wait for your permission before doing things he wants. This is a variation of doing something to get something but instead of simply sitting he has to wait until you tell him it is OK to do it. This is more of an impulse control exercise and is a great way to create a well mannered dog. A great example is to require your dog to settle at your side and wait for your permission before greeting a person or another dog. In this example, the consequence is that he doesn’t get to greet the person or the dog UNTIL he waits for your permission. This takes some training and patience. With your dog on his leash, gently but purposefully pull back on his leash to pull him into the position by your side. It doesn’t matter if he is sitting, standing, downing, etc. He just needs to hang out at your side. Once he is by your side, loosen the tension on the leash; do not keep the leash tight. If he leaves that position, gently but purposefully pull him back into position and again release the leash tension. Continue doing that until he stays at your side with the leash loose. Don’t tell him to stay or reprimand him for moving out of position. Just work the exercise by pulling him back and releasing the tension of the leash. When he is in this position by your side, you may tell him OK and take a step toward the person so he can greet. If he jumps up on the person – pull him back into a settled position and repeat the process until he is successful. He should learn that the quicker he waits for your permission – the quicker he gets to greet the dog or person.

3. Attention isn’t always available. Let’s face it – dogs make us feel good about ourselves. They are always happy to see us and they are often asking for affection or attention from us. Not much is better for the ego than an affectionate dog! Polite or well mannered dogs aren’t demanding or overly pushy in asking for attention from humans. Try this training protocol. When your dog asks for attention you should respond RANDOMLY one of the following three ways:

a. Ask him to sit or down before giving him attention. This is the same as in the first exercise – do something to get something. If he doesn’t sit, he doesn’t get your attention.

b. Another way to respond is to go ahead and give him the attention, but be brief about it and then be dismissive when you are finished. When he asks for attention, give him some good love, but only for about 5 to 10 seconds. Then go back to what you were doing and do not give him any more attention.

c. Finally, at times, you should just be too busy to give your dog the attention he wants. Simply ignore his requests as if it didn’t even happen. He should not be able to predict what your response will be when he asks for attention, rather he should learn that he gets what you give him and being demanding or overly pushy never gets him what he wants.

By responding randomly, you are still providing your dog with affection, but are also teaching him there are times when being pushy doesn’t get him what he wants. These three exercises are very effective for teaching your dog to be polite and well mannered and to have better impulse control about getting what he wants. Please contact us for additional information in carrying out these exercises as well as for help when things don’t work as well as they should. Sometimes training exercises need to be broken into smaller tasks to make your dog successful.

5 Things to Consider Before Adopting a Pet

Written by: Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA, President, Pet Behavior Solutions

Adopting a pet is a great thing to do! Giving a dog or cat (puppy or kitten) a second chance can be a wonderfully rewarding experience. Unfortunately sometimes it can be quite frustrating when things don't go as expected. Here are 5 things to consider before adopting a pet:

1. What are you looking for in a pet? If you want to adopt a dog - are you looking for a jogging buddy, couch potato, social butterfly, protector, etc.? Do you want him to get along with other dogs, men, women, children, cats, birds, etc? If you want to adopt a cat - are you looking for a playful kitty, a lap warmer, a travel companion, etc.? Do you want him to get along with other cats, pets, other people, etc.? Before being taken in by the sweet face, longing eyes, and beautiful markings - be sure you are looking for a good match for your lifestyle and expectations.
2. Consider the life span of a pet. Some dogs and cats can live upwards of 15+ years. What might your life look like in that time period? Can you anticipate any changes that might occur and is the pet you are considering a good match for those potential changes? (e.g., A dog with a high prey drive may not be a good match for your girlfriend's cats should you decide to move in together.)
3. During the meeting or introduction to that pet - if you see anything that concerns you or causes you to have reservations please take the time to think through that. Do not make an emotional decision or go on impulse just because you fell in love or because you want to save or rescue him/her. Take the time to determine if you have what this pet needs and if the issues you may encounter are things you can live with or work with.
4. Don't forget about expenses other than food and veterinary care. All dogs should receive some level of training and many pets may require behavior modification protocols as well in order to resolve issues that may arise. Most problems or issues can either be managed, treated, or completely eliminated with the right training and behavior protocols.
5. Don't adopt a pet that is poorly matched to your lifestyle, needs, or expectations with the intention of changing him or training things out of or into him. While, as stated above, most issues can be successfully addressed it is much better to find the right match in the first place! Trying to mold a dog or cat to meet your expectations could be difficult if not impossible and can be a frustrating experience for both the pet as well as the people involved. Just as in human relationships, we shouldn't enter into the relationship with the intention of changing him or her. It rarely works the way we want it.

Adopting a pet is a great idea and can be an incredibly rewarding experience. Choosing the right match can ensure a rewarding relationship for the rest of your lives together!

Paws, Claws, & Jaws: Dealing with Your Kitten's Rough Play

Written by: Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA, President, Pet Behavior Solutions

We receive many calls about aggressive cats and kittens. These cute kitties bite, scratch, and/or "thump" ferociously! Although there are truly aggressive cats, it is not as common as cats who simply have not learned to play appropriately. Kittens are very curious creatures by nature. They have to be; curiosity is their number one learning tool. Kittens, like children, learn through play and experimentation. Also like children, kittens use their mouths to get to know all of the amazing objects in their exciting environment! Kittens use their mouths to grab, chew, taste, and feel objects and their paws to grab, hold, climb, hoist, and bat all of the fun things in their homes. All of this play is necessary for cats to learn their "job," hunting and defending themselves.

It is necessary for an outside cat to be able to defend himself and hunt effectively. However, kitties with families and cozy homes need to learn a whole different set of skills to ensure a pleasant and successful home life. These pampered cats and kittens need to learn to inhibit the use of their mouths and claws when interacting with people. Remember, from the kitten's perspective, claws are for climbing trees, curtains and legs (with or without blue jeans)! Teeth are for chewing toys, shoes, belts, jewelry, hair, and moving fingers!

Cat and kitten owners must teach their pets to distinguish human skin from everything else. As with children, kittens need to be taught "manners" or behavior that is appropriate in their homes.

Here are several tips to assist in this learning process. The first tip will sound very basic. Always use appropriate and fun toys when playing with a kitten. These should be toys that can be stalked, ambushed, pounced upon, bitten, carried, and thumped! Toys should be constructed such that hands remain out of harm's way. Any fishing rod type toy fulfills these requirements. Toys or items for people to drag (e.g., string, yarn, or shoelaces) will do nicely. Do not allow cats or kittens to have unsupervised access to these items; swallowing string-like items can be quite dangerous. Safe, fun play is the goal!

Be very careful using hands to play with kittens. Kittens should be comfortable being handled so that owners can inspect ears, eyes, mouths, fur, skin and trim nails as necessary. Handling can become very challenging when the kitty is accustomed to playing roughly (i.e., biting or scratching) with the human hand. This is not to imply that "hand play" is impossible with a kitten. Parents simply have to establish certain boundaries or rules of "hand play." In the game of "chase the hand," the kitten is the predator and the hand is prey. Typically, kittens will stop "attacking" as soon as the prey "dies." So, immediately upon the touch from the kitten, the prey must "die." (Stop moving your hand.) The kitten will learn that severe attacks are not necessary to kill a hand. This type of play is not appropriate for older cats; it is primarily a learning exercise for young kittens.

If your cat or kitten plays inappropriately, be prepared to provide a consequence for this behavior. For example, try making a “chhhht” sound and/or blowing on the kitten. A water filled squirt bottle can also be used. The blow or squirt must occur only during the attack. As soon as the attack ceases, so should the blowing or squirting. This is very important. The kitten needs to learn that attacking people is not nearly as fun as playing nicely. When cats and kittens understand the rules of the household, playing is more fun for everyone.