3 Key Training Exercises for a Well Mannered Dog

Written by: Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA, President, Pet Behavior Solutions (www.petbehaviorsolutions.com)

Just about everyone would like to have a polite, well mannered dog. Such dogs are a pleasure to take with you into the community, greet guests well and make their owners feel proud! Here are three key training exercises that you can practice with your dog to teach him to be more polite.

1. Do something to get something. Your dog should learn that he gets what he wants only when he does what you want. Teach your dog to sit or down before he can have access to ANYTHING. Here are some examples of rewards you can provide after your dog offers you a sit or a down: a toy being thrown, freedom from his crate, opening a baby gate, going through a door, receiving meals and treats, getting his leash put on to go for a walk, etc. Don’t make him comply with your command (e.g., pushing his butt down to force him to sit.) Allow him to experience the consequence of what happens if he doesn’t listen. The consequence for NOT complying with a command should be the loss of the thing he was expecting. This means that the door doesn’t open, the toy doesn’t get thrown, dinner is delayed, etc. Wait a minute or two and then try again.

2. Wait for permission. Your dog should learn to wait for your permission before doing things he wants. This is a variation of doing something to get something but instead of simply sitting he has to wait until you tell him it is OK to do it. This is more of an impulse control exercise and is a great way to create a well mannered dog. A great example is to require your dog to settle at your side and wait for your permission before greeting a person or another dog. In this example, the consequence is that he doesn’t get to greet the person or the dog UNTIL he waits for your permission. This takes some training and patience. With your dog on his leash, gently but purposefully pull back on his leash to pull him into the position by your side. It doesn’t matter if he is sitting, standing, downing, etc. He just needs to hang out at your side. Once he is by your side, loosen the tension on the leash; do not keep the leash tight. If he leaves that position, gently but purposefully pull him back into position and again release the leash tension. Continue doing that until he stays at your side with the leash loose. Don’t tell him to stay or reprimand him for moving out of position. Just work the exercise by pulling him back and releasing the tension of the leash. When he is in this position by your side, you may tell him OK and take a step toward the person so he can greet. If he jumps up on the person – pull him back into a settled position and repeat the process until he is successful. He should learn that the quicker he waits for your permission – the quicker he gets to greet the dog or person.

3. Attention isn’t always available. Let’s face it – dogs make us feel good about ourselves. They are always happy to see us and they are often asking for affection or attention from us. Not much is better for the ego than an affectionate dog! Polite or well mannered dogs aren’t demanding or overly pushy in asking for attention from humans. Try this training protocol. When your dog asks for attention you should respond RANDOMLY one of the following three ways:

a. Ask him to sit or down before giving him attention. This is the same as in the first exercise – do something to get something. If he doesn’t sit, he doesn’t get your attention.

b. Another way to respond is to go ahead and give him the attention, but be brief about it and then be dismissive when you are finished. When he asks for attention, give him some good love, but only for about 5 to 10 seconds. Then go back to what you were doing and do not give him any more attention.

c. Finally, at times, you should just be too busy to give your dog the attention he wants. Simply ignore his requests as if it didn’t even happen. He should not be able to predict what your response will be when he asks for attention, rather he should learn that he gets what you give him and being demanding or overly pushy never gets him what he wants.

By responding randomly, you are still providing your dog with affection, but are also teaching him there are times when being pushy doesn’t get him what he wants. These three exercises are very effective for teaching your dog to be polite and well mannered and to have better impulse control about getting what he wants. Please contact us for additional information in carrying out these exercises as well as for help when things don’t work as well as they should. Sometimes training exercises need to be broken into smaller tasks to make your dog successful.

5 Things to Consider Before Adopting a Pet

Written by: Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA, President, Pet Behavior Solutions

Adopting a pet is a great thing to do! Giving a dog or cat (puppy or kitten) a second chance can be a wonderfully rewarding experience. Unfortunately sometimes it can be quite frustrating when things don't go as expected. Here are 5 things to consider before adopting a pet:

1. What are you looking for in a pet? If you want to adopt a dog - are you looking for a jogging buddy, couch potato, social butterfly, protector, etc.? Do you want him to get along with other dogs, men, women, children, cats, birds, etc? If you want to adopt a cat - are you looking for a playful kitty, a lap warmer, a travel companion, etc.? Do you want him to get along with other cats, pets, other people, etc.? Before being taken in by the sweet face, longing eyes, and beautiful markings - be sure you are looking for a good match for your lifestyle and expectations.
2. Consider the life span of a pet. Some dogs and cats can live upwards of 15+ years. What might your life look like in that time period? Can you anticipate any changes that might occur and is the pet you are considering a good match for those potential changes? (e.g., A dog with a high prey drive may not be a good match for your girlfriend's cats should you decide to move in together.)
3. During the meeting or introduction to that pet - if you see anything that concerns you or causes you to have reservations please take the time to think through that. Do not make an emotional decision or go on impulse just because you fell in love or because you want to save or rescue him/her. Take the time to determine if you have what this pet needs and if the issues you may encounter are things you can live with or work with.
4. Don't forget about expenses other than food and veterinary care. All dogs should receive some level of training and many pets may require behavior modification protocols as well in order to resolve issues that may arise. Most problems or issues can either be managed, treated, or completely eliminated with the right training and behavior protocols.
5. Don't adopt a pet that is poorly matched to your lifestyle, needs, or expectations with the intention of changing him or training things out of or into him. While, as stated above, most issues can be successfully addressed it is much better to find the right match in the first place! Trying to mold a dog or cat to meet your expectations could be difficult if not impossible and can be a frustrating experience for both the pet as well as the people involved. Just as in human relationships, we shouldn't enter into the relationship with the intention of changing him or her. It rarely works the way we want it.

Adopting a pet is a great idea and can be an incredibly rewarding experience. Choosing the right match can ensure a rewarding relationship for the rest of your lives together!

Paws, Claws, & Jaws: Dealing with Your Kitten's Rough Play

Written by: Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA, President, Pet Behavior Solutions

We receive many calls about aggressive cats and kittens. These cute kitties bite, scratch, and/or "thump" ferociously! Although there are truly aggressive cats, it is not as common as cats who simply have not learned to play appropriately. Kittens are very curious creatures by nature. They have to be; curiosity is their number one learning tool. Kittens, like children, learn through play and experimentation. Also like children, kittens use their mouths to get to know all of the amazing objects in their exciting environment! Kittens use their mouths to grab, chew, taste, and feel objects and their paws to grab, hold, climb, hoist, and bat all of the fun things in their homes. All of this play is necessary for cats to learn their "job," hunting and defending themselves.

It is necessary for an outside cat to be able to defend himself and hunt effectively. However, kitties with families and cozy homes need to learn a whole different set of skills to ensure a pleasant and successful home life. These pampered cats and kittens need to learn to inhibit the use of their mouths and claws when interacting with people. Remember, from the kitten's perspective, claws are for climbing trees, curtains and legs (with or without blue jeans)! Teeth are for chewing toys, shoes, belts, jewelry, hair, and moving fingers!

Cat and kitten owners must teach their pets to distinguish human skin from everything else. As with children, kittens need to be taught "manners" or behavior that is appropriate in their homes.

Here are several tips to assist in this learning process. The first tip will sound very basic. Always use appropriate and fun toys when playing with a kitten. These should be toys that can be stalked, ambushed, pounced upon, bitten, carried, and thumped! Toys should be constructed such that hands remain out of harm's way. Any fishing rod type toy fulfills these requirements. Toys or items for people to drag (e.g., string, yarn, or shoelaces) will do nicely. Do not allow cats or kittens to have unsupervised access to these items; swallowing string-like items can be quite dangerous. Safe, fun play is the goal!

Be very careful using hands to play with kittens. Kittens should be comfortable being handled so that owners can inspect ears, eyes, mouths, fur, skin and trim nails as necessary. Handling can become very challenging when the kitty is accustomed to playing roughly (i.e., biting or scratching) with the human hand. This is not to imply that "hand play" is impossible with a kitten. Parents simply have to establish certain boundaries or rules of "hand play." In the game of "chase the hand," the kitten is the predator and the hand is prey. Typically, kittens will stop "attacking" as soon as the prey "dies." So, immediately upon the touch from the kitten, the prey must "die." (Stop moving your hand.) The kitten will learn that severe attacks are not necessary to kill a hand. This type of play is not appropriate for older cats; it is primarily a learning exercise for young kittens.

If your cat or kitten plays inappropriately, be prepared to provide a consequence for this behavior. For example, try making a “chhhht” sound and/or blowing on the kitten. A water filled squirt bottle can also be used. The blow or squirt must occur only during the attack. As soon as the attack ceases, so should the blowing or squirting. This is very important. The kitten needs to learn that attacking people is not nearly as fun as playing nicely. When cats and kittens understand the rules of the household, playing is more fun for everyone.

How to Address Common Situations that Sabotage Good Recall with your Dog

Written by: Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA, President, Pet Behavior Solutions

Last week, I wrote about the things we all do that work against a good recall or come command with your dog. Hopefully, it was an illuminating look, from your dog’s perspective, at how every day things work against your training! You should also realize by now that doing everything perfectly is completely impossible! We need to find a good balance between controlling your dog while keeping him safe and teaching him that the come command is the best thing ever!

Today, we will look at each of the steps in the previous article and address ways to handle those situations. Please remember that there are many training activities that you can do to train a good recall. The purpose of this article is to address some common pitfalls that sabotage your training efforts. Please contact us for a systematic training protocol for a reliable recall.

1. Don't use the come command when your dog is in trouble. More often than not when we call our dog is it because he is doing something we want him to stop doing. If your dog hears the come command when you are angry and want him to stop doing something, he won’t want to come. Instead, you should try using a remote punisher. A remote punisher is something he doesn’t associate with you. Some examples would be a squirt bottle on stream, a startling noise, etc. If he is foraging in the litter box and is startled by a noise or startled with a stream of water – he will be more likely to think that bad thing happens when he forages in the litter box – NOT that you get mad at him when he is in the litter box. If he associates his behavior with your displeasure, he is more likely to do it when you aren’t looking! Teach him instead that scary things happen when he does it and you are there to save him from the scary thing.

2. Don’t lecture your dog when he comes when you call him. When your dog shoots out the front door and through some miracle returns to you when you call – it is human nature to react emotionally. Especially when he returns safely, it is natural to think of everything bad that could have happened and visit that fear/relief on your dog. ALWAYS make a big, happy deal of when he returns to you NO MATTER WHAT. Even if he was slow about it or it took a bunch of repeated commands. The end result is he returned to you so that is something to be celebrated and then trained later!

3. Don’t use the come command to call him when he is having fun. I see this happen often! When the dog is out in the back yard playing up a storm and it is time for you to go to work or time to go to bed OR when he is at the dog park playing with his buddies and you want to go home. If he hears the come command and it means the end of everything he is enjoying, he won’t want to come. Instead, call him, make a big deal of his return to you and then let him go back to what he was doing. Do this several times before you actually need him to come. For example, call him once a minute for five minutes with a big hearty reward for coming and then a release to play again. The last time, give him that same reward and then you can take him away from what he was doing. This way, come is just a temporary pause in his fun and the reward is the return to the fun.

4. Don’t use the come command to call him to do something he doesn’t like. If you need to do something he doesn’t like to do, simply go get him and either take him by the collar or put a leash on him to lead him where you need him to be. Don’t give him any cues that the “bad” thing is about to happen. For example: if you need to put medication in his ears, don’t get the medication and then try to get your dog. He will likely learn to run from you when he sees the medication. Instead, get him first and leash him up if necessary, then get the medication and administer it as needed. If it is necessary to crate him for the day and he is reluctant to get in his crate – you should crate him periodically at other times so the crate doesn’t predict your departure and his isolation. You can also make entering the crate a fun game by using treats and praise.

5. Don’t chase after him when he as something you don’t want him to have. This is truly the most common reason that I see young dogs or puppies not wanting to come. Puppies or young dogs explore their world with their mouth so that means about 80% of what is in their mouth shouldn’t be! There are several things you can do in this situation. First, puppy-proof as much as is possible so there isn’t a constant stream of temptations around. Next, have lots of things that he can have available for him. Don’t stress out over things that won’t hurt him. Leaves, twigs, grass – those are all common things for puppies to eat and they digest. Unless there are chemicals around or they are obsessively eating these things – don’t worry about it. If he picks up a rock and then spits it back out, that is another thing you don’t need to worry about. But if he is eating and swallowing rocks, then that is something to be concerned with since rocks don’t digest! Instead of chasing him around when he picks something up – keep him on a leash and pull him away from it before he grabs it or if he does grab it, you can trade him out with another toy or a treat and divert him to something else. If you must swipe something from his mouth, he will already be on a leash under your control so there is no chance of him escaping and running away. If he is already playing the ‘you can’t catch me’ game – try diverting to something else in order to not reinforce the ‘game.’ Go in the house and rattle the treat bag or leash so he hears something more exciting and leaves what he was doing to see what else he is missing. BUT you can’t do these things as merely a trick – you should give him the treat, take him for a quick walk, etc. He needs to trade one activity for another, not just be tricked. Is there a possibility of him learning to grab a rock in order to make you get him a treat? It is possible though not common. If that happens – we can fix that sequence. What is more important is that he not run away from you when he has something.

These are just some examples of common training “errors” and ways to address them. If you are having specific problems with any of these examples, please contact us to help you through it. Sometimes, things are not as simple as a diversion or a remote punisher and you will need specific ways to address these things. If you have any questions or concerns, please contact us at 602-324-8948 or info@petbehaviorsolutions.com.

Five Steps to Sabotage a Good Recall with your Dog

Written by: Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA, President, Pet Behavior Solutions

If you are looking for some sure-fire ways to be sure your dog or puppy doesn’t come when he is called, follow these five sure-fire steps to ensure that!

1. Use the come command when your dog is in trouble. The first step is to be sure that you use the come command when he is doing something he shouldn’t be doing – like getting into the trash, foraging in the cat’s litter box, or re-landscaping your back yard. Simply say your dog’s name and in an angry tone, call him to you. This will ensure a negative association with the come command creating an automatic “Uh-Oh – I need an escape plan” response from your dog.

2. Lecture your dog when he comes when you call him. The second step is to have a good “Mike Brady” lecture planned for when your dog finally arrives. Tell him how dangerous what he was doing could have been, how much he worried you, and that he is never to do that again. This is especially helpful when your dog somehow manages to get out a door or a gate and after a short jaunt, returns to you when you call him. A scolding lecture will surely do the trick here.

3. Use the come command to call him when he is having fun. The third step builds on the previous steps. Whenever your dog is doing something he wants to be doing, you should call him to you to end that fun just in case it is something that you may not want him to be doing. This will all build to a negative association when you command come and create a reluctance to return to you.

4. Use the come command to call him to do something he doesn’t like. This is really the second most important step in this sabotaging process. Make a list of the top five things that your dog may not like to do. Some examples might include taking a bath, getting his nails trimmed, going for a ride to go to the vet’s office, getting kenneled for the day, etc. Be sure to put the come command right before these events happen. As you can see, this will surely lead you to your goal of running the other way when you call him.

5. Be sure to chase after him when he has something you don’t want him to have. This is the single most important step in the process! There is nothing more important than chasing your dog around to pry things out of his mouth. This is especially important when training puppies. Puppies are naturally oral in their exploration of the world. Often, they pick up rocks, leaves, twigs, wrappers, etc. while they are going for a walk or while they are in your back yard. You should approach your puppy in an authoritative manner and when you reach him, pry open his mouth and sweep along his tongue taking care to wipe everything out of his mouth. If he starts to run away when you approach, you should chase him around until you catch him. If he starts to out-maneuver you being next to impossible to catch, you should try to trick him by faking him out with a treat or by strolling past him and then grabbing him by his collar when he is not expecting it.

All of these steps will certainly accomplish the goal of ruining the come command for your dog. Unfortunately, most pet owners don’t even realize that these steps would lead to that end. The good thing is that once you proof the demise of the come command, it can be quite difficult to undo.

I hope you enjoyed this article for how to NOT train the come command. While it was clearly intended to be funny, unfortunately, it is true more often than not. Tune into the next blog where I will be giving tips on how to handle all of these situations that arose in this article. We can train a reliable recall or come command but it will take a bit of work. It needs to be fun for your dog. Remember, ‘come’ cannot mean the end of the fun or the start of something bad. It needs to be the start of fun or the temporary pause before the fun resumes! Stay tuned for the next blog. Please call us for more information on training. 602-324-8948 or info@petbehaviorsolutions.com

The Nighttime Dog Walker’s Club – Antisocial Behavior on Leash

Written by: Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA, President, Pet Behavior Solutions

This is such a common problem with dogs! We get several calls each week from pet owners who have dogs that behave poorly toward other dogs when they are walked on a leash. Often this behavior is described as aggressive and that can be quite confusing to those who have dogs that play at dog parks but then lunge and bark when on leash. Pet owners are frustrated and embarrassed by their dog’s behavior! Often, they try to walk their dogs when no one else is likely to be out – in the dark of night. Or they just don’t walk their dogs at all because it is all too much to handle.

We call this behavior leash reactivity. Leash reactive dogs may bark, growl, lunge, pull, bounce around, etc. when they see another dog. Leash reactivity occurs with all breeds of dogs and at all ages, though it is most common when dogs are between the ages of 1 to 3 years. Some dogs become so wound up that they redirect that behavior onto their owners or even the other dog with whom they are walking. We have seen owners nipped, bitten, clothes torn, and fights with the other dog when more than one is walked at a time. Depending on the size and behavior of the dog, it can be quite unsafe! Often these dogs can be extremely difficult to control during this behavior.

By the time we are called, owners have already tried everything they know to do and nothing has worked well. So why is this happening and what, if anything can be done? More often than not the behavior is stemming from frustration. The restraint and limitations afforded by the leash can be very frustrating to a dog. When dogs become frustrated, they can become angry. When they are angry their behavior can look or even be quite aggressive. We do see many cases in which the dog is truly friendly with other dogs when the meeting occurs off leash. Of course there are cases in which dogs are just plain antisocial toward other dogs. Regardless – the behavior of acting out on the leash is something that can be addressed. It is not just about learning to heel or learning better leash techniques. It is about teaching these dogs about impulse control when they see another dog. Leash reactive dogs need to learn how to channel their frustration and not engage with every dog they see.

Protocols often involve an initial evaluation so we can see and understand the behavior. From there, a systematic protocol is created in which one step builds on another. Practice is essential and having friends or coworkers available to help with their dogs is invaluable. We generally do not recommend group classes for these dogs for two main reasons. First – obedience training alone will not resolve this problem. Second – dogs are often too stimulated and reactive to handle a group class.

If you have a dog reactive dog, please get help. This is an ideal time of year to work on things – before the heat of the summer brings scorching pavement. Talk to friends or coworkers who may need help as well. It is a rewarding process and it is exciting to be able to be a part of your neighborhood community – during the daytime!

Contact us at info@petbehaviorsolutions.com or 602-324-8948

Crate Training Dogs of Any Age

Written by: Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA & Terri Asher, CPDT-KA

www.petbehaviorsolutions.com

Dogs are highly social animals that make wonderful pets. However, with the lifestyle and schedule of the majority of families, dogs must learn to spend a large portion of the day home alone. Too much freedom is the number one reason that puppies get into trouble. A puppy that is left unsupervised to wander, investigate and destroy things will have a difficult time learning how to behave properly in your home. Crates are intended to be transitional for most dogs, although some are happy to keep their crates for life. When properly crate trained, dogs spend their time resting and/or sleeping in the crate.

It is common to hear that dogs are denning animals, so crating appeals to their natural instincts. This is not entirely true, though. First, dogs or wolves den only when they are pregnant, nursing or raising young puppies. The use of the den is abandoned altogether when puppies are approximately 10 to 12 weeks of age. Second, dens are large enough for all the pups to be kept safe and secure together. They are not isolated from each other. Third, dens do not have large metal doors! Pups venture several feet from their dens to investigate and play, but return quickly at the first sound of trouble! The misunderstanding of a dog’s denning instinct can lead owners to mistakenly believe that puppies should readily adapt to being crated.

We expect a lot from a puppies! He is abruptly removed from his litter and put into a large metal or plastic box, isolated away from social contact. We then expect that he will instinctually acclimate to his crate and wonder why he barks and cries. Puppies bark and cry to seek social contact when they are separated from their pack. What a huge adjustment!

There is a big difference between crating a puppy and crate training a puppy. Crate training takes some time, but the result is a dog that is happy to stay in his crate. A puppy that is confined without being properly crate trained may experience anxiety and could possibly injure himself. He may bark or cry, try to escape by digging or chewing his way out. Some may even eliminate in their crates. Here are the important steps to follow when crate training your puppy:

Ø You may choose either the plastic airline crates or the metal/wire crates with tray floors. Most dogs prefer the metal crates because they can see out from all sides.

Ø The crate should be large enough for the puppy to stand up, turn around and lie down comfortably. Crates can be stuffed with pillows or some other barricade for growing puppies. Crates should not be larger than necessary in order to ensure proper housebreaking while in the crate.

Ø Be sure that your puppy has had the opportunity to play, eat, and eliminate before going into his crate.

Ø Remember, young puppies must eliminate frequently (every 1-2 hours when they are awake). Puppies should not be crated for more than a few hours at a time. That time can increase as the pup’s bladder and kidneys develop.

Ø An ideal location for the crate is a room where the family spends time such as a family room or bedroom.

Ø Leave the door open and throw a few treats inside, allowing the puppy to freely walk in and out.

Ø Feed the puppy’s meals in the crate while you are home.

Ø Once the pup enters the crate to retrieve treats without hesitation, throw another treat in and close the door. Praise him while inside for a few moments and open the door again, allowing him to exit.

Ø Several times during the day, throw a treat in while stating a command such as kennel or crate. This will help him to pair the command with entering the crate.

Ø While you are home, have the puppy enter the crate on command with a treat and close the door. Do this several times during the day. Begin training with short sessions. While he is in the crate, leave the room and return on a random basis. Gradually increase the time the puppy spends in the crate while you are home.

Ø The puppy should not associate being crated with your leaving for the day. Many dogs become anxious when their owners leave. Dogs need to be trained to accept being alone in addition to being crate trained.

Ø During training, do not let your puppy out of the crate when he is crying, barking, scratching, etc. Wait for at least 15 to 30 seconds of quiet before letting him out. Do not reward his behavior by releasing him during these times.

Ø If your puppy begins to panic when crated, you must crate train in much smaller steps. It is one thing to not reward barking, it is entirely another thing to cause your puppy to become anxious by going too quickly. If you feel that your puppy is becoming anxious, return to the room where he is crated, but do not give him any attention. He may be comforted by your presence enough to calm down. Once he is calm, you will be more apt to get the 15 or 30 seconds of quiet needed before allowing him out of the crate.

Ø Do not reprimand your puppy for making noise in the crate. His crate needs to be a secure place for him. Reprimands can make him more anxious in the crate. Likewise, do not place your puppy in his crate to punish him.

Ø Be sure to act neutral when letting your dog out of his crate in order to diffuse his excitement level after a day of confinement.

Ø Do not place food, water or rawhides in the crate when you leave for the day. If necessary, freeze a small container of water and place that in the crate or purchase a ballpoint cage waterer. (Available in most pet stores.)

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