Thursday, June 24, 2010

Emotions in our Pets


Written by: Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA, President

Pet Behavior Solutions





When a dog is shaved down for the summer, can he be embarrassed? When a dog misbehaves toward the newly adopted pet, is he being jealous? When a cat urinates on the bed pillow while her family is on vacation is she being spiteful? When a dog’s littermate passes after 10 years together, will the surviving dog grieve? Can our pets experience these emotions?


Dogs and cats have coevolved with humans leading to domestication. They are no longer the wild animals from which they descended. Does this mean that they have more human emotions due to domestication? Let’s look to science for some clarification. There are three types of brains in the animal kingdom:

Primitive or Reptilian Brain – This is the brain stem. The primitive brain supports the most basic functions of breathing, circulation, and digestion. It also involves the most basic aspects of behavior. Its main behavioral function is self-preservation and reproduction.


Intermediate or Mammalian Brain – The intermediate brain is wrapped around the brain stem. This brain involves memory, behaviors related to reproduction, hormones, perception of pleasure, and competition with others. The mammalian brain is the seat of 12 primary social emotions: anger, joy, fear, sadness, surprise, curiosity, frustration, acceptance, emotions relating to play behaviors, sexual attraction, separation distress, and social attachment.


Superior or Rational Brain – This brain combines the brain stem, the mammalian brain and a large prefrontal cortex. This is the brain of humans, elephants, dolphins, and primates. The superior brain provides logic and thought due to its highly developed prefrontal cortex. The prefrontal cortex allows us comprehend good and bad or right and wrong. It governs our impulse control. The prefrontal cortex makes up 30% of the human brain where it makes up only 7% of the dog’s brain, and only 1% of the cat’s brain! While humans possess a moral sense of right and wrong, dogs and cats are unable to do that. They only understand safe and unsafe relating to self preservation. Here is an example: When your dog urinates in the house but you are unable to catch him because he won’t do it in front of you – that doesn’t mean he knows it’s wrong to urinate in the house. It means he has learned that it is unsafe to get caught because bad things will happen. That behavior is driven by cause and effect, not by a sense of right and wrong.


The superior brain allows us to process conflicting or complex emotions. The following are some examples of complex emotions: shame, guilt, embarrassment, love, greed, spite, empathy, and jealousy. Complex emotions involve thought and interpretation. Our culture and upbringing determine their meanings.


So if a dog can’t be embarrassed, how would you explain the sheepish look they have when they are first shaved? Embarrassment is defined as a socially unacceptable act witnessed by others that causes a loss of honor and dignity. Dogs don't get caught up worrying about how we perceive them. Unlike humans, they don't have egos that can be deflated. A better name for this sheepish behavior would be shyness which is defined as a feeling of apprehension, lack of confidence, or awkwardness. Dogs have varying levels of self awareness. The owners of many Labradors will tell you that their dogs don’t know they have a butt or a tail when they crash into things as they move and wag their tail. Conversely, the owner of a Sheltie may say if a hair on the tip of his tail is touched unexpectedly, he will tuck his tail and butt while turning around to see what touched him. This is similar to when a dog behaves in a way that we interpret as embarrassment. When a shaved dog looks embarrassed he is actually behaving in an anxious manner until he has acclimated to how the new haircut feels. This was an adaptive behavior in the wild for survival since anything that was different in their appearance could put them at risk of exposure to the elements or attack by someone else. Hiding and behaving cautiously or anxiously during these times would increase their survival rate. Despite domestication, there are still varying levels of awareness and concern in dogs.


How do you explain when a pet seems to be jealous? Pets are competing for resources or for things they value. What looks like jealousy is really competition. Competition is about survival and rank. It sounds like semantics but it is really important to understand that dogs aren’t conniving animals that stew about another’s advantages.


When a cat pees on my husband’s pillow is there really any other explanation other than spite? Let’s first look at the definition of spite: a malicious, petty desire to harm, annoy, frustrate, or humiliate another person. Spite is a complex emotion by its definition. A cat would have to comprehend a human’s emotions as well as what triggers those emotions. Then it would have to think up a way to elicit certain negative emotions based on an understanding of each person’s unique set of preferences, experiences, ownership rights, system for valuing items, etc. Humans view the act of eliminating as a private and almost dirty but necessary behavior. Animals don’t have those same hang-ups. They use urine as a scent marker in order to establish territory, ownership, or in order to make themselves feel more secure. Often, there is an anxiety component to marking behaviors or there may be some other reason altogether as to why it is happening. They aren’t doing it in order to get some sort of satisfaction when we become upset about it. There is always more to the story and we must look at every aspect of the behavior in order to resolve the issue. It sure feels like spite when the cat only urinates on the husband’s pillow or when the dog chews the most expensive pair of shoes, but it just isn’t.


Don’t dogs and cats grieve when their companion dies? Dogs and cats cannot experience grief in the same way that humans do. Grief is a complex emotion not a primary emotion. Elephants, who have a rational brain like humans, have complex grieving rituals when one of the herd is lost. When a dog or cat is struggling with the death of a person or animal what we are actually seeing is separation distress. Of course distress occurs from the termination of the bond, but there are other reasons for distress. Changes in the remaining pet’s routine resulting from the loss create anxiety and the emotions displayed by grieving humans can cause even more anxiety and distress for pets.


Why is it important to understand our pet’s emotions? When we ascribe complex human emotions to our pets it can create difficulty when we need to change unwanted behavior. We must understand the motivation of the behavior if we are to change it. For example, if a dog destroys the carpet when he is left alone for the day, we must understand the real reason he is doing it in order to come up with the proper solution. He may be experiencing separation anxiety when he is left alone and chews as an outlet for that anxiety or he may have learned that chewing the carpet when you are around just isn’t safe and therefore it works much better to do it when you aren’t home. The solution for each situation would be different because the motivation is different. If we ascribe spite as a motivator for a behavior, we are already wrong on the motivation and will likely chose an ineffective technique for resolving it. We then become more frustrated and we are at odds with our pet.


Dogs and cats have different brains than humans. We should not think of them as furry people complete with human drives and emotions. Instead, we should look at them as having more child-like emotions and embrace their innocence. Only through compassion and understanding can we truly have a mutually beneficial relationship with our pets.




Thursday, June 3, 2010

A Better Way to Train


Written by: Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA, President (www.petbehaviorsolutions.com)


Pet Behavior Solutions has developed a different style of training that we call Choice Training™. Choice Training™ focuses on teaching your pethow to choose the behaviors you like instead of those you don’t. Your petis rewarded for making the right choice. Choice Training™ incorporates the best aspects of the other training methods but avoids their pitfalls. It works for general obedience training as well as behavior modification!



How do training methods differ?


Although there are many different methods for training dogs, most can be separated into two basic categories: traditional training and modern training. Traditional training focuses on correcting the dog when he does something wrong. For example, if a dog pulls ahead on a leash instead of heeling, the handler will apply a leash correction to get the dog into the heel position. Or, if the dog does not sit, the handler pulls up on the leash while pushing down on the dog’s hind-quarters until the dog sits. Dogs learn to obey commands to avoid these corrections. Modern training focuses on controlling the dog’s behavior by manipulating him into doing something right and rewarding him for doing it. For example, to teach a dog how to sit, a handler would rock the dog gently back into a sitting position or use a treat to lure him into position. The dog is then rewarded for sitting.



What is Choice TrainingTM and why is it better than the alternatives?


It is more fun for the trainer and the dog to teach behaviors without having to use training methods that rely on fear, pain, or discomfort. Choice TrainingTM encourages your dog’s creativity and problem solving. It makes them try harder to get things right and they don’t give up as easily because getting it wrong doesn’t result in a correction. Getting it wrong creates frustration and disappointment which creates a stronger desire to figure it out. Choice TrainingTM avoids the negative side effects of traditional corrections yielding more confident, compliant dogs. It does not involve bribing as bribes encourage a dog to hold out. (e.g., The dog is commanded to come but waits to hear the rattle of the treat bag before he decides to come.) With our methods dogs won’t only work for food, they will work for what they want which includes attention, freedom, access to something, etc. Dogs also learn that not compling results in the loss of those same thinhgs. Choice TrainingTM utilizes hope for something rather than expectancy. Hope is extremely powerful and is immunized from disappointment; expectancy isn’t. Choice TrainingTM promotes better reliability in training.



Why does it work? How does it work? Will it work for all dogs? (e.g., old, young, varying breeds, varying sizes, etc.)


We do not physically manipulate or force the dog, we manipulate the environment in order to maximize the possibility that a given behavior will occur. Our training teaches your dog that you control the resources and his choices either gain or lose those resources. We want the dog to make lots of mistakes in order to learn which choices work and which choices don’t. We use a system of positive reinforcement and negative punishment—good things happen, good things go away. You control the resources and your dog controls the choices. It’s all up to them how they behave; it’s up to us what we reinforce. Your dog always chooses the behavior; you learn to show him/her what choices are best. Choice TrainingTM is based on laws of learning and behavior—that which is reinforced will be repeated, that which is not reinforced will be abandoned.



Please contact us for more information about Choice TrainingTM and for help with your pet’s behavior and training.

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Case Report - Pulling Moss From the Ficus Tree

Written by: Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA, President Pet Behavior Solutions


Dog: Sashi, 2-year-old spayed female Skye Terrier


Client: Tiffany


Client Complaint: Pulling moss from an artificial tree



When Tiffany was at work, Sashi would pull the moss out of the artificial Ficus tree and make a terrible mess in the living room. Sashi did not destroy anything else while Tiffany was at work and was otherwise well behaved when Tiffany was home. Tiffany told me that Sashi had played in the moss when she was first adopted a year ago, but after a few reprimands, she had stopped. After a few months, Sashi began occasionally playing with the moss, but only when Tiffany was not home. By the time Tiffany called me, the problem behavior had become much more frequent, and Tiffany was facing almost daily messes. When Tiffany found these messes after returning home from work, she would bring Sashi over to the tree and say, “No, Sashi, bad girl.” Sashi eventually avoided the tree completely when Tiffany was home, but continued to pull the moss out of the tree when Tiffany was at work.


Tiffany had unwittingly taught Sashi not to bother the tree as long as she was home. Sashi had learned that playing with the moss was no fun when Mom was around (because she got scolded) but that it was quite fun to do when Mom wasn’t around. This is what we call an “owner absent” problem — when a dog learns not to do something in front of the owner. In order to solve the problem, Sashi needed to learn that the tree itself didn’t want to have its moss removed! To help Sashi learn this lesson, we used a product called a Snappy TrainerTM. A Snappy Trainer™ is a mousetrap modified with a big red plastic paddle on it so the dog cannot get hurt when the product is set off. We placed the Snappy Trainer™ in the tree basket and carefully placed the moss on top of it. When Tiffany returned home from work, the Snappy Trainer™ had been set off and there was a minimal amount of moss on the floor. She continued to set the Snappy Trainer™ each day. When Tiffany returned home on the 3rd day, the she discovered that the moss had not been disturbed and Snappy Trainer™ was still as she had left it. Sashi had learned that scary things happen when she plays with the moss even if Mom wasn’t in the room! The tree itself delivered a message that it did not want to have the moss pulled from it. We often see owner-absent problems that arise because pets learn not to engage in certain behaviors in the presence of the owner. The most effective way to deal with such issues is to help the pet realize that the behavior itself doesn’t work, regardless of whether humans are around or not. Snappy Trainers™ are one method of teaching this lesson, and we would be happy to discuss other effective methods with you!


For more information on Snappy Trainers, please contact Pet Behavior Solutions http://www.petbehaviorsolutions.com/ or http://www.snappytrainer.com/


Tuesday, May 4, 2010

Private Obedience Training vs. Group Obedience Classes

Written by: Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA, President, Pet Behavior Solutions

http://www.petbehaviorsolutions.com/

Have you ever wondered which is better – private or group training? We receive many calls for obedience training for dogs. Some people specifically ask for either private lessons or group training but most have no idea how to choose which is better for their situation. Here is a list of pros and cons for each to help you to decide which is best for you and your pet!

Private training pros

· Tailored specifically for your training goals

· Scheduled at your convenience

· Lessons are held in your home

· Minimal distractions compared to group training

· Lessons are more practical (e.g., commands are taught and practiced for how you want to use them – stay when the front door is opened, not jumping on company, coming when called in your neighborhood, sitting and downing incorporated into your household routine)

· You get all the attention during the lesson

· Lessons can be scheduled in any environment that you want your dog to behave (e.g., parks, coffee shops, etc.)

Group training pros

· Other dogs provide distractions to practice the exercises

· Less expensive

· Having other students and dogs creates a little competition to work the exercises (No one wants to have the only dog who didn't practice the homework!)

Private training cons

· More expensive

· No peer camaraderie or competition to work the exercises

· No other dogs to provide a distraction to practice the lessons

Group training cons

· Instructor or trainer’s attention is divided by all the students in the class

· The group setting of a class is very distracting for the dogs which presents challenges when learning something new

· Can be difficult to apply the lessons outside of the classroom in the environment in which you need your dog to comply (e.g., the front door, out on the park, when company comes over, etc.)

Did you know that 96% of dogs surrendered to animal shelters have never had any formal training?Whether you choose group training or private lessons, training is extremely important! Dogs need to know basic commands in order to be well mannered. Basic commands can keep your dog safe as well. Come and stay are two very important safety commands because they control your dog's movement. Training can make you proud of your dog and gives you quality time together!

Tuesday, April 27, 2010

3 Key Training Exercises for a Well Mannered Dog

Written by: Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA, President, Pet Behavior Solutions (www.petbehaviorsolutions.com)

Just about everyone would like to have a polite, well mannered dog. Such dogs are a pleasure to take with you into the community, greet guests well and make their owners feel proud! Here are three key training exercises that you can practice with your dog to teach him to be more polite.

1. Do something to get something. Your dog should learn that he gets what he wants only when he does what you want. Teach your dog to sit or down before he can have access to ANYTHING. Here are some examples of rewards you can provide after your dog offers you a sit or a down: a toy being thrown, freedom from his crate, opening a baby gate, going through a door, receiving meals and treats, getting his leash put on to go for a walk, etc. Don’t make him comply with your command (e.g., pushing his butt down to force him to sit.) Allow him to experience the consequence of what happens if he doesn’t listen. The consequence for NOT complying with a command should be the loss of the thing he was expecting. This means that the door doesn’t open, the toy doesn’t get thrown, dinner is delayed, etc. Wait a minute or two and then try again.

2. Wait for permission. Your dog should learn to wait for your permission before doing things he wants. This is a variation of doing something to get something but instead of simply sitting he has to wait until you tell him it is OK to do it. This is more of an impulse control exercise and is a great way to create a well mannered dog. A great example is to require your dog to settle at your side and wait for your permission before greeting a person or another dog. In this example, the consequence is that he doesn’t get to greet the person or the dog UNTIL he waits for your permission. This takes some training and patience. With your dog on his leash, gently but purposefully pull back on his leash to pull him into the position by your side. It doesn’t matter if he is sitting, standing, downing, etc. He just needs to hang out at your side. Once he is by your side, loosen the tension on the leash; do not keep the leash tight. If he leaves that position, gently but purposefully pull him back into position and again release the leash tension. Continue doing that until he stays at your side with the leash loose. Don’t tell him to stay or reprimand him for moving out of position. Just work the exercise by pulling him back and releasing the tension of the leash. When he is in this position by your side, you may tell him OK and take a step toward the person so he can greet. If he jumps up on the person – pull him back into a settled position and repeat the process until he is successful. He should learn that the quicker he waits for your permission – the quicker he gets to greet the dog or person.

3. Attention isn’t always available. Let’s face it – dogs make us feel good about ourselves. They are always happy to see us and they are often asking for affection or attention from us. Not much is better for the ego than an affectionate dog! Polite or well mannered dogs aren’t demanding or overly pushy in asking for attention from humans. Try this training protocol. When your dog asks for attention you should respond RANDOMLY one of the following three ways:

a. Ask him to sit or down before giving him attention. This is the same as in the first exercise – do something to get something. If he doesn’t sit, he doesn’t get your attention.

b. Another way to respond is to go ahead and give him the attention, but be brief about it and then be dismissive when you are finished. When he asks for attention, give him some good love, but only for about 5 to 10 seconds. Then go back to what you were doing and do not give him any more attention.

c. Finally, at times, you should just be too busy to give your dog the attention he wants. Simply ignore his requests as if it didn’t even happen. He should not be able to predict what your response will be when he asks for attention, rather he should learn that he gets what you give him and being demanding or overly pushy never gets him what he wants.

By responding randomly, you are still providing your dog with affection, but are also teaching him there are times when being pushy doesn’t get him what he wants. These three exercises are very effective for teaching your dog to be polite and well mannered and to have better impulse control about getting what he wants. Please contact us for additional information in carrying out these exercises as well as for help when things don’t work as well as they should. Sometimes training exercises need to be broken into smaller tasks to make your dog successful.

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

5 Things to Consider Before Adopting a Pet

Written by: Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA, President, Pet Behavior Solutions

Adopting a pet is a great thing to do! Giving a dog or cat (puppy or kitten) a second chance can be a wonderfully rewarding experience. Unfortunately sometimes it can be quite frustrating when things don't go as expected. Here are 5 things to consider before adopting a pet:

  1. What are you looking for in a pet? If you want to adopt a dog - are you looking for a jogging buddy, couch potato, social butterfly, protector, etc.? Do you want him to get along with other dogs, men, women, children, cats, birds, etc? If you want to adopt a cat - are you looking for a playful kitty, a lap warmer, a travel companion, etc.? Do you want him to get along with other cats, pets, other people, etc.? Before being taken in by the sweet face, longing eyes, and beautiful markings - be sure you are looking for a good match for your lifestyle and expectations.
  2. Consider the life span of a pet. Some dogs and cats can live upwards of 15+ years. What might your life look like in that time period? Can you anticipate any changes that might occur and is the pet you are considering a good match for those potential changes? (e.g., A dog with a high prey drive may not be a good match for your girlfriend's cats should you decide to move in together.)
  3. During the meeting or introduction to that pet - if you see anything that concerns you or causes you to have reservations please take the time to think through that. Do not make an emotional decision or go on impulse just because you fell in love or because you want to save or rescue him/her. Take the time to determine if you have what this pet needs and if the issues you may encounter are things you can live with or work with.
  4. Don't forget about expenses other than food and veterinary care. All dogs should receive some level of training and many pets may require behavior modification protocols as well in order to resolve issues that may arise. Most problems or issues can either be managed, treated, or completely eliminated with the right training and behavior protocols.
  5. Don't adopt a pet that is poorly matched to your lifestyle, needs, or expectations with the intention of changing him or training things out of or into him. While, as stated above, most issues can be successfully addressed it is much better to find the right match in the first place! Trying to mold a dog or cat to meet your expectations could be difficult if not impossible and can be a frustrating experience for both the pet as well as the people involved. Just as in human relationships, we shouldn't enter into the relationship with the intention of changing him or her. It rarely works the way we want it.


Adopting a pet is a great idea and can be an incredibly rewarding experience. Choosing the right match can ensure a rewarding relationship for the rest of your lives together!

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Paws, Claws, & Jaws: Dealing with Your Kitten's Rough Play

Written by: Sam Kabbel, CPDT-KA, President, Pet Behavior Solutions

We receive many calls about aggressive cats and kittens. These cute kitties bite, scratch, and/or "thump" ferociously! Although there are truly aggressive cats, it is not as common as cats who simply have not learned to play appropriately. Kittens are very curious creatures by nature. They have to be; curiosity is their number one learning tool. Kittens, like children, learn through play and experimentation. Also like children, kittens use their mouths to get to know all of the amazing objects in their exciting environment! Kittens use their mouths to grab, chew, taste, and feel objects and their paws to grab, hold, climb, hoist, and bat all of the fun things in their homes. All of this play is necessary for cats to learn their "job," hunting and defending themselves.

It is necessary for an outside cat to be able to defend himself and hunt effectively. However, kitties with families and cozy homes need to learn a whole different set of skills to ensure a pleasant and successful home life. These pampered cats and kittens need to learn to inhibit the use of their mouths and claws when interacting with people. Remember, from the kitten's perspective, claws are for climbing trees, curtains and legs (with or without blue jeans)! Teeth are for chewing toys, shoes, belts, jewelry, hair, and moving fingers!

Cat and kitten owners must teach their pets to distinguish human skin from everything else. As with children, kittens need to be taught "manners" or behavior that is appropriate in their homes.

Here are several tips to assist in this learning process. The first tip will sound very basic. Always use appropriate and fun toys when playing with a kitten. These should be toys that can be stalked, ambushed, pounced upon, bitten, carried, and thumped! Toys should be constructed such that hands remain out of harm's way. Any fishing rod type toy fulfills these requirements. Toys or items for people to drag (e.g., string, yarn, or shoelaces) will do nicely. Do not allow cats or kittens to have unsupervised access to these items; swallowing string-like items can be quite dangerous. Safe, fun play is the goal!

Be very careful using hands to play with kittens. Kittens should be comfortable being handled so that owners can inspect ears, eyes, mouths, fur, skin and trim nails as necessary. Handling can become very challenging when the kitty is accustomed to playing roughly (i.e., biting or scratching) with the human hand. This is not to imply that "hand play" is impossible with a kitten. Parents simply have to establish certain boundaries or rules of "hand play." In the game of "chase the hand," the kitten is the predator and the hand is prey. Typically, kittens will stop "attacking" as soon as the prey "dies." So, immediately upon the touch from the kitten, the prey must "die." (Stop moving your hand.) The kitten will learn that severe attacks are not necessary to kill a hand. This type of play is not appropriate for older cats; it is primarily a learning exercise for young kittens.

If your cat or kitten plays inappropriately, be prepared to provide a consequence for this behavior. For example, try making a “chhhht” sound and/or blowing on the kitten. A water filled squirt bottle can also be used. The blow or squirt must occur only during the attack. As soon as the attack ceases, so should the blowing or squirting. This is very important. The kitten needs to learn that attacking people is not nearly as fun as playing nicely. When cats and kittens understand the rules of the household, playing is more fun for everyone.